WebMaster's NOTE: I found this article in the website archives. Although written several years ago, I think it is still informative for those with difficulty getting an HF station on the air, or newly licensed hams that are unsure of what it takes. Owen moved back up north several years ago, and has since passed. This is from 2012
End fed antennas 
			have worked well for me here in The Villages and may work 
			well for you. A bit of background..
The first 
			time I remember messing about with antennas was in 1947 
			when I ran a very long wire from our house, across the 
			street, to a tree. (Across a street? Really? Yep.) This 
			antenna fed my Philmore crystal radio, which I bought from 
			the Johnson Smith Company catalog (some of you may remember 
			this catalog) and it worked great. I later built my own 
			crystal set that worked even better.
Fast 
			forward some 65 years and here I am in The Villages trying 
			to rig a good stealth antenna for my Yaesu 450D.
My first attempt was a mini G5RV in the attic over the 
			garage. It worked and it worked well but there were some 
			“issues”....
Issue #1: Running the 
			antenna was a nightmare. Whacking my head on the beams in 
			the attic, punching a hole in my head on one of the nails 
			that was sticking through the roof, and developing major 
			kinks in my back twisting around various roof supports 
			(we’re none of us 18 anymore) and,
Issue 
			#2: Every time I keyed the transmitter, the lights on the 
			TV hutch would key ON/OFF. No problem there, I just 
			unplugged the lights... and,
Issue #3: Ah, now 
			we have the real problem. Seems that the attic over the 
			garage is the cable run for the TV feed and every time I 
			transmitted I’d blow away TV reception; and I want to 
			tell you, when you wipe out the signal for Dancing With The 
			Stars you do not have a happy home. And I even tried a 
			bunch of clamp-on ferrite cores with no success.
OK, time for Plan B. I did due diligence with Google 
			searching for “antenna stealth” and found an 
			end-fed made and sold by a ham club in Hawaii. They 
			promised all band capability, no radials or ground 
			required, and as it was only $44 I thought I’d give 
			it a try. It arrived in a couple of days and it consisted 
			of a 9:1 UN UN in a plastic junction box and 35 feet of 
			dark green wire.
I ran the antenna from a corner 
			of the house to a friendly palm tree and I was on the 
			air... the internal tuner in my Yaesu 450D tuned 40 through 
			6 meters just fine, 1.1:1 SWR, but it never really worked 
			well on 40 meters and was useless on 80 meters. Trimming 
			the wire to 18 1⁄2 feet improved performance on 20 
			and up even more. I’d guess I’ve some 2,000 
			QSO's, mostly PSK-31, using this antenna.
I 
			lived with these limitations for a year plus and thought 
			that a vertical might do better so I picked up an 18 
			1⁄2 foot S9 vertical by LDG Electronics and a 4:1 
			balun. Sadly, the vertical never really worked well 
			regardless of how many radials I installed ... my guess is 
			that the location I was forced to use, right next to the 
			house, was the killer for that antenna. The house is stucco 
			and behind the stucco is a steel mesh which I’d bet 
			did the antenna no good at all.
Now a while 
			back, Wally KI4VPD told me about a table that listed 
			“good lengths” for end-fed antennas. With this 
			in mind, I purchased 9:1 UN UN from Balun Designs and ran 
			another end-fed this time with a wire length of 52 
			1⁄2 feet, again from the palm tree but to a different 
			corner of the house, then a 100 feet of RG-8X from the UN 
			UN to my shack. The company’s recommendations are 
			that you try either:
1.Grounding the 
			“negative” connection on the UN UN,
2.Running a single counterpoise from that negative 
			terminal, length as long as the lowest band you wish to 
			operate on, and finally
3.No ground or 
			counterpoise, just let the coax shield act as your 
			counterpoise. I tested all three configurations and found 
			that #3, no ground or counterpoise, gave far and away the 
			best results for me - SWR 1.3:1 or better on all bands.
Now on to testing the both end fed antennas. I ran 
			both RG-8Xs to a two-position antenna switch in the shack, 
			thence to the Yaesu and rather than trying to have actual 
			QSO's, I fired up WSPR (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter) 
			and let it run on one band after another, power out 5 
			watts. Results:
•The 18 1⁄2 foot end 
			fed works better on 15, 12, and 10 meters. No signals found 
			on 6 meters.
•The 52 1⁄2 foot end fed 
			works much, much better on 80, 40, and 30 meters.
•While the 18 1⁄2 foot runs East-West and the 
			52 1⁄2 foot runs North-South, directivity on both 
			seem about the same, good results for all of North and 
			South America, Europe, and occasional Africa and 
			Australia.
References:
The first end-fed 
			was purchased from The Hawaii Emergency Amateur Radio Club, 
			$44, good people, profits go toward club projects:
			
			http://www.earchi.org/92011endfedfiles/Endfed6_40.pdf
The 9:1 UN UN was from Balun Designs, $50 plus 
			shipping. The UN UN is on the following web-page:
			http://www.balundesigns.com/servlet/the-102/QRP-9-cln-1-Unun-1.5/Detail
Click on Installation Notes and Wire Length/SWR 
			table on that page for wire-length details. Balun Designs, 
			by the way, is highly regarded in the amateur radio 
			community – check them out on eham.
WSPR 
			– Weak Signal Propagation Reporter – think 
			attended beacon where you transmit for 2 minutes at 5 
			watts, pause to receive other signals for 8 minutes, then 
			repeat. Everybody on-air using this mode posts the signals 
			received on the internet automatically. You can do a 
			real-time look at a map which will tell you how well your 
			station is doing compared to others in your general area. 
			Good writeup here:
http://www.g4ilo.com/wspr.html
Good luck and 73, I hope a stealth 
			end-fed will work well for you too.
Owen ex-KJ4YAC, N1KAM (SK)
